01Why hoodies are a Chinese strength
This is a category built on knitting mills, and the mills are the reason.
A hoodie is four things joined together: a knitted body fabric, a ribbed trim, a hood assembly and a fastening. The knitting mills that produce loopback and fleece fabric sit in the same regions as the cut-and-sew workshops that use it, and the trims are made nearby too. That proximity means a small order can specify its own fabric rather than picking from whatever a middleman happens to hold.
For a buyer this matters because fleece is sold by weight and composition. When you can name the fabric, you stop being at the mercy of the listing's adjectives.
02GSM: the number that matters
Grams per square metre. Ask for it every time, and treat its absence as information.
| Weight | What it feels like | Where you see it |
|---|---|---|
| 180–220 GSM | Thin, light, slightly translucent in light colours | Cheap promotional hoodies, summer weight |
| 250–280 GSM | Ordinary mid-weight. The bulk of the market | Everyday fast-fashion hoodies |
| 320–360 GSM | Substantial, holds a shape, warm | Better streetwear ranges |
| 400–450 GSM | Heavy, structured, almost outerwear | Premium blank hoodies |
| 450+ GSM | Very heavy and stiff until worn in | A deliberate look, not an everyday garment |
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03Brushed fleece or loopback
Two fabrics with a smooth face and completely different insides.
| Brushed fleece | Loopback / French terry | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside | Surface brushed up into a soft pile | Knit loops left intact |
| Warmth | Warmer for the same weight | Cooler, breathes more |
| Durability | Pills and matts with washing | Holds shape and surface far longer |
| Feel when new | Very soft | Firmer, slightly drier |
| Best for | Cold weather, softness over longevity | Daily wear, frequent washing |
Both are honest choices. The failure mode is a listing that photographs the soft inside of fleece and then ships loopback, or the reverse. Ask which one, and if it is a blend, ask for the composition.
04The five details that decide lifespan
These are cheap to specify and expensive to get wrong.
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Ribbing spandex content
A cuff and hem rib with 5–8% spandex springs back. At 2% it stretches permanently, which is what makes an old hoodie look limp at the wrists.
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Double-needle hems
Two rows of stitching at the hem and cuffs instead of one. A single row is the first seam to fail on a cheap hoodie.
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Hood lining and the drawcord channel
A lined hood sits properly and does not collapse. An unlined one looks flat after the first wash. Ask whether the drawcord has metal or plastic tips — metal survives the dryer.
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Side seams versus tubular body
A tube body has no side seams and twists as it ages. Side-seamed construction costs slightly more and stays straight.
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Zip quality if it is a zip-up
This is where the cheap version announces itself. Ask for the zip brand. An unbranded zip on a heavy fleece is the most common failure point in the whole garment.
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05Printing and embroidery
The method decides whether the design survives twenty washes.
| Method | Look | Durability |
|---|---|---|
| Embroidery | Raised, textured, small designs | Effectively permanent |
| Screen print | Flat, bold, opaque colours | Long, if properly cured and on cotton |
| Puff print | Raised, tactile | Good initially; cracks if stretched |
| Direct to garment | Photographic detail, soft hand | Fades fastest; best on light colours |
| Heat transfer / vinyl | Sharp edges, any colour | Peels at corners if the fabric moves |
On dark poly-cotton blends, print adhesion drops. If you are specifying both the fabric and the decoration, that combination is worth calling out explicitly.
06Spec sheet, then QC
Two messages that prevent almost every disappointment in this category.
In the order notes: GSM, fleece type (brushed or loopback), composition percentage, flat measurements (chest, body length, shoulder, sleeve), ribbing content, zip brand if applicable, pre-shrunk or not, and the decoration method.
In the QC photos, ask for:
- Chest and body length measured flat against a tape — not the size label
- A close-up of the inside surface, so you can see whether it is brushed or loopback
- The cuff rib under tension, to show whether it springs back
- The printed or embroidered area at an angle, to show the edges
- The whole garment front and back, so the proportions are visible
07Questions people actually ask
What does GSM mean on a hoodie?
Grams per square metre, the weight of the fabric. 250–280 is ordinary mid-weight; 320–360 feels substantial; 400+ is genuinely heavy. It is the hardest number on a listing to fake.
Fleece or French terry — which should I choose?
Brushed fleece for warmth and immediate softness; loopback for durability and breathability. Loopback holds its surface far longer across repeated washing.
Which decoration lasts longest?
Embroidery is effectively permanent. Screen print lasts well on cotton when correctly cured. Direct-to-garment fades fastest. Adhesion weakens on synthetic blends.
How do I avoid shrinkage?
Ask whether the fabric is pre-shrunk or garment-washed, and request post-wash measurements rather than loom-state ones. That single question removes most of the risk.
Is a tube body a problem?
It can twist over time and it fits less cleanly at the sides. Side-seamed construction costs a little more and keeps its shape. Worth specifying on anything you plan to sell or wear regularly.
See what is actually available. Hoodies sit in the apparel range, alongside jackets, t-shirts and pants.
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