01The simplest garment there is
Which is exactly why differences in quality are so easy to spot.
A t-shirt is a knitted tube or two panels, two sleeves, a collar and some stitching. There is almost nowhere to put hidden engineering, and no way to make a thin fabric feel thick. So the category rewards specification more than any other: if you name the weight and the yarn, you know what will arrive.
Chinese mills produce an enormous range of knit fabric, from 110 GSM promotional weight up to 300 GSM heavyweight, in cotton, cotton-poly blends, viscose blends and full synthetics. The same workshop that runs a cheap promotional order can run a heavy ring-spun one, because the fabric is bought in, not made in house.
02Fabric weight, honestly described
Ask for GSM in writing. If a listing gives none, assume the low end of the range it displays.
| GSM | How it behaves | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 110–140 | Very thin. Light colours show through; it looks worn out quickly | Giveaways, sleepwear, layering |
| 150–170 | Thin but wearable. The standard fast-fashion weight | High-volume cheap retail |
| 180–220 | Substantial, opaque, holds shape | Everyday shirts and most print work |
| 240–280 | Heavy, structured, slightly boxy | Premium blanks and streetwear |
| 300+ | Dense and stiff when new, drapes heavily | A deliberate heavyweight statement |
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03Yarn type: what the softness claims mean
| Type | How it is made | What you feel |
|---|---|---|
| Carded / open-end | Fibres carded, then spun quickly with minimal twist | Rougher surface, heavier pilling, cheaper |
| Combed | Short fibres removed before spinning | Smoother and stronger; fewer stray fibres |
| Ring-spun | Twisted tightly on a ring frame | Softer hand, better print surface, holds shape |
| Slub / heather | Deliberate irregular yarn or mixed-colour fibres | Textured, deliberately uneven look |
Composition matters alongside yarn type. Pure cotton is breathable but moves and wrinkles. A 90/10 cotton-poly blend resists shrinkage and holds print well, at the cost of breathability. Viscose blends drape and feel cool but are weaker when wet. None of these are faults — the fault is not being told which one you are buying.
04The collar test
If you only inspect one thing, inspect this.
Look at three features:
- Elastane in the collar rib. Without it, the neckline stretches and turns wavy within a dozen washes. Around 5% is normal for a collar that keeps its shape.
- Taped neck seam. A strip of fabric covering the seam where the collar meets the body. It stops the seam abrading the neck and stops the neckline distorting. Its absence is the clearest signal of a cost-cut shirt.
- Cross-grain cut, or straight. A collar cut across the grain of the fabric recovers its shape. A straight-cut strip does not, and this is the single most common reason a cheap shirt looks old while it is still new.
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05Shrinkage, and how to ask about it
Knit cotton relaxes and shrinks. A decent mill either pre-shrinks the fabric or garment-washes the finished shirt. Both cost money, which is why budget shirts omit them and why a cheap shirt is often a size smaller after a month.
The question to ask is not "does it shrink" — everything shrinks a little. The question is: what are the measurements after washing? A seller who knows their product can answer. A seller who cannot is telling you something.
Alongside that, ask for flat measurements of chest, body length, shoulder and sleeve. Compare them to a shirt you already like rather than to a size letter, using the method in the size chart guide. In this category, letter sizes differ by several centimetres between factories.
06Decoration, and the spec sheet
Printing. Screen printing is the standard for bold designs and lasts well on cotton when properly cured. Direct-to-garment handles photographic detail but fades fastest. Heat transfer peels at the corners on stretchy fabric. Embroidery is permanent but only suits small, simple shapes.
Send the seller:
GSM and composition
Named precisely, with the percentage split on any blend.
Yarn type
Ring-spun or open-end. This is where most of the feel difference lives.
Flat measurements after washing
Chest, body length, shoulder, sleeve, and whether pre-shrunk.
Collar specification
Elastane content, cross-grain cut, taped neck.
Decoration method and placement size
In centimetres, measured from the collar, not in words like large or small.
Then in the QC photos: the collar photographed under slight tension, the inside of the neck seam to show the tape, a flat chest measurement against a tape, and the decoration at an angle to show the edges.
07Questions people actually ask
What GSM should a good t-shirt be?
180 to 220 for everyday wear. Under about 160 it becomes thin and light colours turn translucent; over 240 it is a deliberate heavyweight look rather than an ordinary shirt.
What is ring-spun cotton?
A spinning method that twists the fibres tighter, giving a softer, stronger yarn with a better surface for printing. Open-end spinning is faster and cheaper and produces a rougher fabric that pills more.
Why does the collar matter so much?
It fails first. A cross-grain collar with elastane and a taped neck seam keeps its shape; a straight-cut ribbed collar without elastane goes wavy, which is the most visible sign of a budget shirt.
Will a cotton t-shirt shrink?
A little, unless the fabric is pre-shrunk or the garment is washed before sale. Ask for post-wash measurements and you remove the guesswork.
Is a cotton-poly blend worse?
It is different, not worse. It resists shrinking and holds print well, but breathes less than pure cotton. The problem is only when a listing implies pure cotton and ships a blend.
See what is actually available. T-shirts sit in the apparel range, alongside hoodies, jackets and pants.
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