01Yes, China makes movements
This is the fact that makes the category worth understanding.
China has manufactured its own watch movements for decades, more recently both quartz and mechanical, alongside cases, dials, hands and sapphire crystals. Several domestic manufacturers supply both the domestic market and international microbrands, which is why a well-specified watch can cost far less than a European equivalent without any of the difference being about authenticity.
The relevant question for a buyer is not origin. It is which grade. The same movement family is sold in several tiers that differ in regulation, finishing and consistency, and a listing that names the movement lets you look up what you are getting.
02Movement type
| Type | How it works | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Quartz | Battery and oscillator | Most accurate and cheapest to service; battery replacement every few years |
| Automatic | Wound by the movement of the wrist | No battery, mechanical interest; less accurate and needs servicing eventually |
| Hand-wound | Manual winding | Thinner cases; a daily ritual some want and others do not |
| Solar / eco | Light charges a cell | Long service intervals; fewer options in budget ranges |
Accuracy is worth asking about in numbers. A quartz movement is typically within seconds a month; a budget automatic may be within twenty to thirty seconds a day. Both are fine for the money, but a seller who states a figure is a seller who knows the product.
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03Case and crystal
- Steel grade. 316L is the standard for watch cases: corrosion resistant, holds a polish, and safe against skin for most people. 304 is cheaper and more common in budget cases. Ask which one, because it is a one-line answer for anyone who knows.
- Case finishing. Look at whether brushed and polished surfaces are crisp or soft at the edges. Blurry transitions between finishes are one of the most visible signs of a cheap case.
- Crystal. Sapphire resists scratches and is the upgrade most worth paying for, because scratches on a crystal are permanent. Mineral glass is harder to shatter but scratches. Acrylic scratches readily and can be polished out.
- Case thickness. Often left out of listings. A watch that is too thick or too long lug-to-lug will not sit well on a smaller wrist, whatever the diameter says.
04Water resistance, read correctly
| Rating | Safe for | Not safe for |
|---|---|---|
| 3 ATM / 30m | Rain, splashes, hand washing | Showering, swimming |
| 5 ATM / 50m | Showering, brief immersion | Swimming laps |
| 10 ATM / 100m | Swimming, snorkelling | Diving |
| 20 ATM / 200m | Recreational diving | Saturation diving |
Two things the number does not cover. Seals degrade with age and with heat, so no watch should be worn in a hot shower or sauna. And a rating is only valid if the crown and case back are properly closed, which is worth checking on arrival.
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05Straps, lume and the rest
- Straps. Leather varies enormously: full-grain versus bonded, as with bags. Steel bracelets should have solid end links and a clasp that closes firmly. Rubber and FKM straps are better for water than leather.
- Lume. Ask how many layers and how long it lasts. Cheap lume fades within minutes; a decent application is still readable after a few hours in the dark.
- Dial finishing. Applied indices and printed dials look different under a loupe. Alignment of the markers and the date window is the easiest thing to check in a photograph.
- Serviceability. A named movement can be serviced or replaced. An unidentifiable one usually cannot, which matters if you plan to keep the watch.
06Spec sheet and QC
Send the seller: movement type and exact model, case steel grade, case diameter, lug-to-lug, thickness and lug width, crystal material, water resistance rating, strap material and type, and whether the bracelet has solid end links.
In the QC photos:
- Dial straight on, so index and date alignment are visible
- The case silhouette from the side, showing whether the finishing is crisp
- The crown and case back closure
- The bracelet clasp, open, showing the mechanism
- A shot of the watch running, with the date set to the day of the photo
07Questions people actually ask
Are Chinese watch movements any good?
China has made its own movements for decades, and good ones are accurate and serviceable. What matters is the tier, not the origin: the same manufacturer supplies several grades with different regulation and finishing.
What does 3ATM water resistance mean?
Splash resistance only. 5ATM covers showering, 10ATM covers swimming, 20ATM is dive rated. Heat and aged seals can defeat any of them, so no watch belongs in a hot shower.
Sapphire or mineral crystal?
Sapphire, if there is one upgrade to spend on. Crystal scratches are permanent, and sapphire resists them far better. Mineral glass is more shatter resistant but scratches; acrylic scratches easily and can be polished.
Why does the same model vary so much in price?
Because movement grade, case steel, crystal, dial finishing, lume and strap are all separately specifiable. Two watches can look the same and share only their dimensions.
Can watches be shipped by air?
Often yes, but lithium cells are restricted on many lines. Confirm with the agent which route accepts it, and expect the watch to travel on a specific line rather than the default one.
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